The Alawite dynasty has been the ruling family of Morocco since the 17th century CE and is one of the longest-standing dynasties in the country’s history. Visitors to Meknes, Fes, Rabat, and Marrakesh will encounter its historical landmarks in every city: palaces, gates, mosques, madrasas, and city walls. This article provides a simplified introduction to its history, focusing on what is useful for visitors in interpreting the landmarks, while acknowledging that the historical details are extensive and that some assessments vary among sources.

Origins and Beginnings in Tafilalt

The Alawites belong to the Hasani Ashraf, and their roots trace back to the Tafilalt region in the southeast, where they settled after their ancestors migrated from the Hejaz. The name «Alawites» derives from their descent from Ali ibn Abi Talib, may Allah be pleased with him, through al-Hasan ibn Ali. Their rise began in the 17th century, when Saadi rule weakened, central authority disintegrated, and numerous local emirates emerged.

Moulay al-Rashid and the Unification of the Country

Sultan Moulay al-Rashid is credited with unifying large parts of Morocco in the 1660s, entering Fez around 1666, and subsequently Marrakesh and other cities. He died a few years before completing his project, and was succeeded by his brother Moulay Ismail, who remained in power for a long time.

Moulay Ismail and Meknes

Moulay Ismail ruled for about fifty years (from approximately 1672 to 1727), made Meknes his capital, and built there palaces, massive walls, and imposing gates, the most famous of which is Bab al-Mansur. He relied on a strong regular army known as the ‘Abid al-Bukhari’ and sought to liberate the occupied border regions and establish internal stability. He also established diplomatic ties with European nations. The historic city of Meknes was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in the 1990s.

The 18th and 19th Centuries

After Moulay Ismail, the country went through a period of turmoil before stability was restored under Sultan Sidi Muhammad ibn Abdullah in the second half of the 18th century. He focused on maritime trade, founded the city of Essaouira (Mogador) as a modern port on the Atlantic, and signed trade agreements with several countries. In the nineteenth century, European pressure increased, and military and financial challenges arose, including the defeat by France at the Battle of Isly in 1844 and the War of Tetouan with Spain in the 1860s.

Protection and Independence

In 1912, the Treaty of Fez was signed, establishing a French protectorate over most of Morocco, with Spanish spheres of influence in the north and south, and special status for Tangier. This situation persisted until 1956, when Morocco gained its independence under the leadership of Sultan Mohammed bin Youssef, who became King Mohammed V. The royal exile in 1953 and the return in 1955 are linked to a powerful national memory.

Modern Monarchy

• Hassan II (1961–1999): He built the institutions of the modern state during a difficult period, and one of his most notable projects was the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.
• Mohammed VI (since 1999): His tenure was marked by major projects in infrastructure, ports, energy, and education, as well as constitutional reforms, including the 2011 Constitution, which established Amazigh as an official language.

Upper-Level Attractions Worth Visiting

• Meknes: Bab al-Mansur, the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail (non-Muslims are permitted to enter part of it, subject to the site’s regulations), the horse stables, and the ahra’at.
• Fes: The Royal Palace with its golden gates, which can only be viewed from the outside, as well as schools and gates that were restored during the Alawite era.
• Rabat: The Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the Palace of Al-Mashour, and the Al-Mashour neighborhood, where traditional guard-of-honor ceremonies are held.
• Marrakech: The Bahia Palace and a 19th-century house.

How do you interpret this history as a visitor?

Keep the visit focused: Start in Meknes to understand the founding period, then head to Rabat to see the symbols of the modern state, and stop by Essaouira to explore the maritime transformation. Treat the royal palaces with respect: Photography inside is generally not permitted, nor is approaching the guards, and security details should not be disclosed. Keep in mind that some sites are closed during official events.

The Alawites and the Four Imperial Cities

Moroccans use the term “imperial cities” to refer to Fez, Meknes, Marrakesh, and Rabat—cities that successive states designated as their capitals. The Alawites have a presence in all four to varying degrees. Meknes epitomized the era of Moulay Ismail; Fez remained a center of learning and religion as well as a royal palace; and Marrakech returned as a center of government at various times, while Rabat became the modern administrative capital during the French Protectorate and after independence, when Resident-General Lyautey chose it, and it has remained the capital of the kingdom ever since.

Therefore, visiting these cities in chronological order allows for a gradual understanding of the Alawite state, with each city serving as a chapter in a single story.

A Tip for Those Interested in Reading

If you’d like to delve deeper after your visit, look for books on modern Moroccan history and studies that examine Moulay Ismail and Morocco’s relationship with Europe in the 18th century; they offer a broader picture than the simplified official narrative. Avoid relying on short online excerpts for genealogical details and military statistics, as accounts vary. As for Moroccan museums—such as the Army Museum and city museums—you’ll find documents and photographs that help provide a more accurate understanding of the 19th and 20th centuries.

For those who don’t have much time, it’s enough to associate each city with a specific era: Meknes with its founding and power, Essaouira with its maritime openness, Fez with scholarship and institutions, and Rabat with the modern state. This simple association makes it easier for you to organize the information in your mind as you travel.

Summary

The Alawite state appears as a continuous thread linking different phases: unification, construction, conflict with external pressures, and then independence and modernization. Understanding this thread adds depth to any journey through the imperial cities. For precise details on dates and figures, refer to specialized history books and the informational plaques at the sites.